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Investigative Reports

Bangkok turned a golf course right into a park. Is Manila able to do the identical?

Madisony
Last updated: December 31, 2025 1:52 am
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Bangkok turned a golf course right into a park. Is Manila able to do the identical?
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Intramuros: A park for the folks?Rotfai Park: What Intramuros may very well be

BANGKOK, Thailand – Earlier than it turned considered one of Thailand’s most beloved public parks, Rotfai Park was as soon as a golf course.

That’s arduous to think about now, with the timber grown tall and the inexperienced grass open to all. There aren’t any golf carts right here; the air hummed with bicycles and chatter. Households picnic by the grove beneath the shade, runners pound the paved paths, and meals distributors arrange their tents close to the doorway for the weekend market.

FAMILY. A pair and their kids picnic on the grass beside a small lake the place guests can kayak. Lance Spencer Yu.

For the locals, it’s an peculiar Saturday. However as a customer, I couldn’t assist the ache of longing and envy. Again house, we’d have known as all this non-public property — which brings us to Intramuros.

Intramuros: A park for the folks?

This story used to finish with a pissed off query — why can’t we’ve got open areas? Intramuros was one of many clearest causes it felt not possible. An unlimited expanse of inexperienced within the coronary heart of Manila, that, for greater than a century, has largely been reserved for a slim pool of individuals. The argument usually goes that it has all the time been this manner, and heritage dictates that we’ve got to uphold this privileged entry.

However one thing has modified. Since November 23, the Membership Intramuros Golf Course has been opening its greens each Sunday as a public leisure house, with golf pausing for the day. It’s a begin. A cautious one, sure, with boundaries nonetheless in place, as if the grass is perhaps ruined by peculiar toes. However the route is there.

Is it sufficient? Hardly. Manila Mayor Francisco “Isko Moreno” Domagoso has been blunt about what he needs subsequent: changing the positioning into the Intramuros Forest Park, a long-term challenge he frames as inclusive and sustainable, on the argument that the land is underutilized and advantages just a few.

“Not too long ago, might mga nagwawalang golfer. Akala mo ba sila ang may-ari at karapatan. Nanggalaiti sila na bakit daw gagawing park? Tingnan n’yo ang argument. Talagang mahahalata mo na mga taong makasarili,” Moreno mentioned on December 3 as reported by Manila Bulletin.

(Not too long ago, there have been some indignant golfers. You’d suppose they owned the rights to the land. They’re indignant at it being became a park? Have a look at their argument. You may actually inform they’re egocentric folks.)

Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
BRIDGE. Rotfai Park is stuffed with quiet spots like this, the place tree-shaded bridges cross over creeks and open into vast areas. Lance Spencer Yu.

Moreno will face an uphill battle prying Intraumuros away. And to be truthful, the pushback isn’t solely emotional. There are actual considerations about jobs and tourism income if the golf course is transformed. But it surely’s not just like the land will vanish; it will likely be repurposed.

A forest park conversion could be accomplished in phases, with Sunday openings serving as a check run quite than a token gesture. If something, the truth that Intramuros can already open in the future every week proves the purpose: town can share this house.

Past Intramuros, consider Wack Wack, Veterans, Villamor, Manila Golf, and extra. It’s not that the metro lacks inexperienced house, or that each “park” is basically only a concrete slab with tufts of dried grass. Although, to be truthful, the few parks we do have match that description.

No — the land exists. Actually, we’ve got dozens upon dozens of hectares saved inexperienced for a similar goal. So why will we maintain reserving it for the few?

Now, again to Thailand, so you possibly can see what this seems like when a metropolis commits to the concept totally.

Rotfai Park: What Intramuros may very well be
Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
PET-FRIENDLY. Canines are welcome in particular areas by the lake, the place guests stroll and play with their pets. Lance Spencer Yu.

Bangkok’s Wachirabenchathat Park, popularly referred to as Suan Rotfai, exhibits what may occur if we selected otherwise.

Rotfai Park wasn’t all the time open to the general public. The land as soon as belonged to the State Railway of Thailand and served as its non-public golf course.

In 2002, the federal government determined to show it right into a public park and renamed it as Wachirabenchathat Park in honor of then-Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn’s fiftieth birthday. It was a symbolic gesture, opening up the unique inexperienced as a shared house.

A lot of the park’s format nonetheless hints at its previous, with vast fairway-like lawns now repurposed into jogging and biking paths. Actually, the title Suan Rotfai actually means “Prepare Park.”

We begin on the weekend market by the doorway, a discipline of white and blue tents. Distributors promote every part from mango sticky rice to grilled hen and a number of the finest salmon katsu I’ve tasted.

vendors, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
vendors, food, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
FOOD. The weekend market is filled with inexpensive eats, from conventional Thai dishes to grilled hen and sweets. Lance Spencer Yu.

Although the market is nowhere as huge as close by Chatuchak, it’s nonetheless full of life, specified by neat rows, and straightforward to navigate. Actually, it appears like an even bigger, better-organized model of the Salcedo or Legazpi weekend markets again house. Regardless of being so wildly widespread, each are just about confined to a slim stretch of highway and a car parking zone. However that exhibits Filipinos have the urge for food for that form of gathering; if we constructed higher, greener neighborhood areas, weekend markets of this scale would absolutely observe.

wet market, palengke, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
PALENGKE? The market has stalls promoting fruits, greens, and every kind of recent produce too. Lance Spencer Yu.

Earlier than you enter the park, you even have the choice to lease a motorbike, and also you’ll undoubtedly want one for those who hope to see each a part of the large 60-hectare property. How huge is huge anyway? Properly, Rotfai Park is greater than 200 instances the scale of Arroceros Forest Park, Manila’s so-called “final lung.”

When you step inside Rotfai Park, you’ll discover that there’s greater than sufficient room for everybody. Cyclists glide by means of the biking lanes, safely other than joggers who maintain to their very own separate path. {Couples} sit on benches. Households nap on picnic mats.

Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand, bicycle
CYCLE. Whether or not you deliver your individual or lease one, the park is finest skilled on a motorbike from finish to finish. Lance Spencer Yu.

There are basketball courts, seaside volleyball areas, tennis courts, soccer fields, and even a health middle. If group sports activities aren’t your factor, there’s loads of out of doors health club tools and a giant playground, the place kids chase one another and the aged work up a light-weight sweat.

Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand, tennis courts
PLAY. If you happen to’re the sporty kind, Rotfai Park has loads of house for you – be it basketball or tennis. Lance Spencer Yu.
Children's park, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
KIDS. A kids’s park in Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand. Lance Spencer Yu

There’s house not only for folks however for nature too. Wooded areas have sufficient timber to virtually really feel like small forests. Ravens squawk overhead and idle by the streams, ponds, and creeks that reduce by means of the park. If you happen to’re fortunate – or maybe, unfortunate – you would possibly even catch a monitor lizard sunbathing by the water’s edge.

black bird, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
NATURE. Ravens, monitor lizards, butterflies, and flowers all thrive within the park. Lance Spencer Yu.
plants, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
plants, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand

Rotfai Park is definitely half of a bigger complicated of interconnected parks, together with the Queen Sirikit Park subsequent door. Although smaller than Rotfai, it lives as much as its regal title. The doorway from inside Rotfai hides itself like a well-kept secret: a slim bridge shrouded by foliage that out of the blue opens into promenades lined with flowers. Fountains ripple within the distance, and swimming pools of water cradle blooming lotus flowers.

plants, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
REGAL. With its rows of trimmed hedges, flowers, fountains, and stone walkways, Queen Sirikit Park actually appears like a queen’s backyard. Lance Spencer Yu.

In some corners of the park, the creeks run quietly beneath the timber, and between the leaves you possibly can see Bangkok’s skyline glittering within the distance. It’s simple to neglect, however this refuge lies proper within the middle of considered one of Asia’s busiest financial facilities.

The air right here is heat and heavy, however not uncomfortable. It smells faintly of earth and blossoms. Folks stroll quietly, their conversations delicate and unhurried, misplaced within the open house.

garden, Rotfai Park, Bangkok, Thailand
URBAN. Bangkok’s towering skyscrapers remind you that this oasis is correct within the metropolis. Lance Spencer Yu.

And what house it’s. That, maybe, is what folks neglect they want – room to breathe, to maneuver, to easily exist. That, too, is what the Philippines retains lacking. So if Thailand may flip an outdated golf course right into a park the place anybody can stroll, sit, or suppose, why can’t we? – Rappler.com


From Terminal 21 to Platinum: Your guide to Bangkok shopping
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