Edinburgh’s historic Cafe Royal, a celebrated restaurant and bar, is marking its bicentennial anniversary this year, commemorating two centuries of operation. Located on West Register Street, this establishment has maintained its distinctive Victorian interiors, offering a rare glimpse into the past amidst the evolving urban landscape. Originally established in 1826, the Cafe Royal has occupied its current premises since 1863, narrowly escaping a fate that could have seen it transformed into a retail chain store in the 1960s.
A Near Miss and a Saved Legacy
The Cafe Royal’s survival is a testament to public support and civic intervention. In the 1960s, the building’s then-owner intended to sell it, a move that would have likely led to its redevelopment. However, a significant public outcry, evidenced by a petition gathering over 8,000 signatures, coupled with assistance from the city council, ultimately secured the building’s preservation. This collective effort ensured that the Cafe Royal could continue to stand, largely unchanged, as a historical landmark.
Architectural Grandeur and Parisian Flair
The current premises, designed by architect Robert Paterson, were initially intended as a showroom for gas and bathroom appliances for owner Robert Hume before opening as the Cafe Royal Hotel in 1863. The interior design is a remarkable example of Victorian baroque, evoking a distinctly Parisian atmosphere. Visitors are immediately struck by the opulent features, including:
- Intricate stained glass windows
- A striking marbled bar
- Detailed ceramic murals
- Rich wooden panelling
- Ornate cornicing
These elements combine to create an immersive historical dining experience, transporting patrons back to Victorian Edinburgh.
Artistry in Ceramic and Glass
A significant artistic feature within the bar area is the collection of six Royal Doulton ceramic tile portraits. These were originally created for the Edinburgh International Exhibition of 1886, held in The Meadows, and are based on paintings by John Eyre. Acquired by architect James Macintyre Henry, these tiles are rare surviving artifacts from the exhibition. They depict influential historical figures, including:
- James Watt: Inventor of the steam condensing engine.
- William Caxton: Introduced the printing press to England.
- George Stephenson: Known as the ‘father of railways’ and a pioneer of locomotive engines.
The restaurant itself continues this theme of artistic grandeur with large 19th-century stained glass windows. These windows, crafted by Ballantine and Gardiner, feature depictions of various sports, celebrating activities such as tennis, archery, hunting, rugby, lawn bowling, and cricket, reflecting the sporting interests of the era.
A Culinary Heritage of Seafood and Whisky
Beyond its stunning aesthetics, Cafe Royal has cultivated a reputation for its exceptional culinary offerings, particularly its seafood and extensive selection of Scottish whiskies. The establishment has been a favoured destination for both locals and tourists since its inception. A cornerstone of its menu remains the Scottish Rock Oysters, sourced from Cumbrae, with the restaurant selling over 1,000 oysters weekly. This dedication to high-quality, locally sourced ingredients underscores its long-standing culinary tradition.
Cultural Impact and Modern Celebrations
The Cafe Royal’s unique ambiance has not gone unnoticed by the film industry. Its wood-panelled Oyster Bar served as a stand-in for a high-end London restaurant in the acclaimed 1981 film Chariots of Fire, further cementing its status as an iconic location.
Currently owned by the Metropolitan Pub Company, part of Greene King, the Cafe Royal continues to operate with its historical interiors intact and remains a bustling venue. To commemorate its 200th anniversary throughout the year, the establishment is offering special menus. These include a dedicated ‘200 Years’ drinks menu, featuring a mix of classic and contemporary cocktails like the Champagne Cobbler, Vesper Martini, and a Knickerbocker rum cocktail. The food menu also boasts celebratory dishes, such as a ‘200 Years’ seafood platter, langoustine in burnt butter sauce, and smoked ham hock and ox cheek stovies, inviting patrons to celebrate this significant milestone.
A Lasting Icon of Edinburgh
The Cafe Royal stands as a remarkable example of preservation in the modern era. Its enduring Victorian architecture, coupled with a commitment to quality food and drink, has allowed it to thrive for two centuries. As it celebrates its bicentennial, the restaurant and bar not only honours its rich history but also continues to be a vibrant and cherished part of Edinburgh’s cultural and social fabric, offering a unique blend of historical charm and contemporary hospitality.
