As Japan’s tourism scorching spots entice increasingly vacationers, there’s by no means been a greater time to go off the overwhelmed path and discover comparatively under-visited locations like Yamagata Prefecture. Whereas greater than half of the 37 million guests to Japan in 2024 spent a while in Tokyo and a 3rd visited Kyoto, round one p.c made their manner 200 miles north of the capital to Yamagata.
But unfold throughout this largely rural prefecture, you’ll discover lots of the substances that make Japan such an interesting vacation spot. Need atmospheric temples and sacred mountains? Head to Yamadera and Dewa Sanzan. Extremely rated winter sports activities? Try Mount Zao. Want a scorching spring city that appears prefer it’s been transported from a fairytale? Attempt Ginzan Onsen.
Plus, Yamagata additionally has culinary clout. Domestically raised Yonezawa Gyu is likely one of the county’s prime wagyu manufacturers. There are tasty native ramen variations, and a hearty hotpot, imoni, that’s so beloved it has its personal annual celebration. Combining regionally grown rice and snowmelt from Yamagata’s lengthy winters, the area’s sake breweries craft among the greatest sake in Japan.
TK {Photograph} by Michael George
TK {Photograph} by Michael George
Add a protracted lineup of annual festivals that vary from cherry blossom-viewing in spring to the colourful summer season road dancing of the Hanagasa Matsuri, and it is easy to see why Yamagata shines.
(See all 25 locations that made our listing of the very best locations to go to in 2026.)
What to do
Zao Onsen: In winter, the slopes of Mount Zao don’t simply present nice snowboarding and snowboarding, they’re lined by rime-covered bushes which have been dubbed juhyo (snow monsters) for his or her big, gnarly shapes. After a day on the slopes, two different Zao specialties come into play: Soak in one of many many pure scorching spring baths after which strive the extremely rated Yamagata sake.
Dewa Sanzan: The three sacred peaks of Dewa Sanzan—Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono—have been a spot of worship and pilgrimage for hundreds of years. One spotlight right here is to climb the two,000-plus steps by Haguro’s dense cedar forest to Dewa Sanzan Shrine, although for a deeper expertise you would keep at a shukubo (temple lodging) or be a part of yamabushi ascetics for conscious practices similar to waterfall meditation.
Yamadera: At this mountaintop temple, you possibly can observe within the footsteps of famed haikuist Matsuo Basho. When Basho got here right here within the late 1600s, he wrote considered one of his most well-known haiku, “stillness / the cries of cicada / sink into the rocks.” Hike by the wooded path and also you’ll move stone lanterns and statues coated in moss, earlier than reaching a group of temple buildings and sweeping views of the valley beneath. Are available summer season and also you may hear the cicadas, too.
Nishikawa: Named one of many Finest Tourism Villages by UN Tourism, Nishikawa will get about 20 ft (six meters) of snow each winter—it lasts so lengthy you possibly can nonetheless ski right here in June. Residence to one of many Dewa Sanzan peaks (Mount Gassan), Nishikawa has lengthy attracted pilgrims, however the city is now additionally creating sustainable tourism initiatives, together with craft workshops and culinary experiences.
When to go
In winter, Yamagata’s heavy snowfall is ideal for snowboarding and snowboarding. On the favored slopes of Mount Zao, the season runs from early December to early Could, whereas less-developed Mount Gassan is open by early June. You’ll additionally discover winter festivals, such because the Uesugi Snow Lantern Pageant in February, when 1,000 snow lamps and lanterns are constructed across the Uesugi Shrine.
Whereas extra southern areas of Japan are highly regarded and humid in summer season, Yamagata just isn’t constantly as toasty. Away from the mountains, the typical August excessive temperatures has ranged from 31 to 35°C (87 to 95°F) lately, however the mountains stay just a little cooler. Summer season can also be the time for main festivities like the standard dancing of the Yamagata Hanagasa in early August.
With continuously clear skies and delicate temperatures, spring and fall are each perfect for being out and about. Each even have beautiful seasonal colours—together with the cherry blossoms at Kajo Park by Yamagata Fort in April and the fiery foliage alongside the Mogami River round late October to early November.
Zao Onsen, Yamagata, Japan – It takes many steps to climb to the Sukawa Onsen Shrine, situated on the finish of Takayu Avenue. When coated in ice and snow, the climb will be much more daunting. The unique temple was constructed round 834 – 847 and the trendy temple was accomplished in 1959. {Photograph} by Michael George
Zao Onsen, Yamagata, Japan – Most guests arrive to Zao Onsen through the bus switch from Yamagata that drives up the lengthy and winding mountain roads. Upon arrival, the density of snow is barely bisected by roads and the new springs that circulation down the mountain. Simply outdoors the bus station stands a phonebooth, lit up in the midst of the evening and buried in lots of ft of snow. {Photograph} by Michael George
The place to eat
Tokiwa: Run by the identical household for 5 generations, this restaurant in Yonezawa has been serving Yamagata’s extremely prized Yonezawa beef since 1894—as steak, shabu shabu, and sukiyaki. You’ll additionally discover a second department in Yamagata metropolis.
Yamagata Nagaya Sakaba: Imoni, a hotpot centered on taro and meat, is Yamagata’s consolation meals. If you happen to can’t make it for the annual Imoni Pageant in September, when some 30,000 servings are cooked up in a single, big pot, cease by Yamagata Nagaya Sakaba. In darkish, rustic interiors akin to an previous farmhouse, you possibly can strive imoni and different regional dishes.
Yamagata Sake Museum: No, it’s not really a museum, however this bar in Zao Onsen does serve sake from near 50 breweries within the prefecture. You might be in an excellent a part of Japan to pattern just a few brews: like Champagne for its bubbly and Parma for its cheese, in 2016 Yamagata grew to become the primary Japanese prefecture to obtain a geographical indication for its sake.
Sakaeya: Yamagata is thought in Japan for its ramen, however within the Fifties it was Sakaeya that created essentially the most distinctive native variation – hiyashi ramen. Each broth and noodles are served chilled, and also you’ll even discover a handful of ice cubes within the bowl. Though it’s an particularly in style summer season dish, it’s on the menu year-round.
The place to remain
Daishinbo: This pilgrim’s lodge, run by a yamabushi household on the foot of Dewa Sanzan, has been welcoming vacationers for 300 years. Vacationers can guide one of many tatami mat rooms, get pleasure from meals centered on mountain greens, and participate in morning rituals.
Tatami room of Fujiya Ryokan within the Ginzan Onsen Village. {Photograph} by Tina Bague/Akashi Photographs, VISUM/Redux
Takimikan: A contemporary ryokan in Ginzan Onsen that mixes tatami rooms and Japanese aesthetics with touches like beds (relatively than futon). Like lots of the greatest ryokan, you possibly can unwind in open-air scorching spring baths and take multi-course dinners that includes in-season, native produce.
Chikuenso: This modern inn has easy accessibility to Mount Zao’s snow resorts and summer season mountain climbing trails, and affords post-adventure pampering with onsen baths, kaiseki dinner programs, spa, and spacious rooms and suites that mix Japanese and Western designs.
Getting round
Bullet trains on the Yamagata Shinkansen route run from Tokyo to a number of stops in Yamagata prefecture, together with Yonezawa, Yamagata metropolis, and Shinjo. To chop prices, the money-saving JR East Go for Tohoku offers 5 days of limitless journey on the bullet prepare and different JR strains throughout the complete Tohoku area, together with the journey to and from Tokyo.
Past the bullet prepare, native JR strains attain Yamadera and buses run between Yamagata metropolis and Zao Onsen, however a rental automobile is a handy approach to discover extra rural areas, similar to Dewa Sanzan. Main companies like JR Lease-a-Automobile, Toyota Lease a Automobile, and Nippon Lease-a-Automobile supply on-line reserving in English and have branches at Yamagata Station and different main stations.
Yamagata has a home airport, situated 14 miles outdoors of Yamagata metropolis, with flights to Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, and Sapporo.
From Dartmoor within the UK, however now a long-term Tokyoite, Rob Goss has visited most of Japan over the previous twenty years, writing award-winning books and tales for media all over the world. Comply with him on Instagram.
