Dominic Sessa, the breakout star of ‘The Holdovers,’ found himself in an unexpected culinary apprenticeship for his latest role as a young Anthony Bourdain. In the new film ‘Tony,’ Sessa portrays a 19-year-old Anthony Bourdain before the fame, money, and iconic television persona. Remarkably, Sessa entered production with virtually no cooking experience, a fact director Matt Johnson deliberately cultivated to enhance the authenticity of the character’s journey.
Embracing the Novice Chef Persona
The film ‘Tony’ delves into Bourdain’s formative years, specifically his time as a trainee chef in 1975, drawing inspiration from his semi-autobiographical work, ‘Kitchen Confidential.’ Sessa embodies a petulant 19-year-old Tony who, after facing rejection from writing school, finds himself working in a Cape Cod seafood restaurant. Under the tutelage of a seasoned chef, played by Antonio Banderas, Tony navigates the demanding and often chaotic world of professional kitchens.
Director Matt Johnson emphasized the importance of Sessa’s lack of culinary skills. “It was actually important for me that Dom didn’t know how to cook,” Johnson explained. “I didn’t want him to learn because this movie is about a neophyte who really has no idea what he’s doing, and that’s kind of tough to fake.” This approach allowed Sessa to authentically portray the awkwardness and steep learning curve of a novice in a high-pressure environment.
On-Set Mentorship and Culinary Skills
In a fascinating turn of events, it was co-star Antonio Banderas who provided Sessa with practical culinary guidance both on and off-screen. “[He] was really capable in the kitchen and he actually taught me a lot personally,” Sessa shared. “I also learned how to shuck oysters, actually.” Sessa credited Eli Sussman, the head chef and owner of Gertrude’s restaurant in Prospect Park, for teaching him the specific skill of oyster shucking.
Johnson noted that mastering such skills, like becoming a proficient oyster shucker, naturally reduces a performer’s awkwardness. “Once you become a master oyster shucker, once you really know your way around a kitchen, you’re just not quite as awkward, which is really what we wanted him to be,” he added.
Exploring Bourdain’s Early Complexities
By focusing on Bourdain’s earlier life, ‘Tony’ offers a lighter perspective, steering clear of the profound mental health and addiction struggles that later marked the chef’s life. However, Sessa felt it was crucial to hint at the underlying complexities that would shape Bourdain.
“He always kind of had this consistent darkness in him in a way,” Sessa reflected. “What I hope people realise watching this movie is that there’s a certain time in your life, especially when you’re young, where it’s critical to sort of address those things.” He added that while the character might experience moments of hope, these are ultimately fleeting.
The Kitchen Hierarchy and Comedic Relief
The film vividly depicts Tony’s position at the bottom of the kitchen hierarchy, enduring banter and hazing from more experienced kitchen staff. Comedian and actor Stavros Halkias plays Stavros, a character who embodies the seasoned kitchen wanderers described in ‘Kitchen Confidential.’ Halkias drew upon his own life experiences to bring authenticity to the role.
“All I had to do was be these guys that I knew. I grew up in Baltimore. My mom was a waitress in Greek restaurants. My dad was a contractor,” Halkias explained. “I played a lot of sports growing up. I know a locker room. I know a break room. My first job was at a machine shop owned by a Greek guy that made parts for guns. I know what it’s like to bust balls and haze people.” His role provided significant comedic relief while also illustrating the intense camaraderie and rough-and-tumble nature of kitchen culture.
A Different Perspective on Relationships
Director Matt Johnson also explored Bourdain’s relationships, particularly his dynamic with his summer love, Nancy, played by Emilia Jones. While Bourdain kept the identity of this significant figure private in ‘Kitchen Confidential,’ Johnson expanded the character to represent Bourdain’s high school sweetheart and eventual wife.
“It’s so interesting that Anthony Bourdain is writing about his life in Kitchen Confidential; here he is with his girlfriend in Provincetown, who he’s followed there and will later be his wife for 25 years,” Johnson observed. “Yet 99 per cent of the text is around these homosocial relationships that he has in these fraternal settings where he is being hazed, bullied, and humiliated into a profession that he didn’t even want to be a part of.”
Johnson noted that Bourdain derived significant self-worth from his relationships with women, but his passion for food ultimately remained a central driving force. “[She’s] why he went there. It’s why he’s working in the kitchen, and yet he can’t even spend more than five or six uninterrupted minutes with her because it’s too much.” This portrayal highlights the complex interplay between personal relationships and professional ambition in Bourdain’s early life.
‘Tony’ is set to be released in cinemas on August 20.
